Surfing is a leisure activity of significant economic value. In some areas, entire local economies are sustained by surfers visiting to take advantage of the area's favourable surf conditions.
For the avoidance of doubt, ‘surfing’ is used herein to take in a wide range of wave-riding activities including bodyboarding and stand-up paddle boarding. ‘Surf conditions’ is used herein to refer to the shape and behavior of the waves.
Typically, as a set of waves approaches a shoreline the waves will slow down and ‘squash’ together. In more technical terms, the wave length is shortened whilst the frequency is maintained. This process is called shoaling and results in increasing wave height. Eventually lower portions of the wave slow to a speed at which they are overtaken by higher portions of the wave. This is referred to as the wave breaking.
How the waves break is an important aspect of surf conditions, and not all surfers have the same preferences. Beginners generally prefer waves that ‘spill’, that is, waves wherein the overtaking portions flow down the main face of the wave. More experienced surfers often prefer waves that ‘pitch’, that is, waves wherein the overtaking portion of the wave falls down some distance in front of the main face of the wave so as to define a tubular void in which the surfer may surf.
Whilst it is often convenient to think of waves in two dimensions, waves are in fact three-dimensional. How a wave behaves in the direction transverse to its direction of travel (i.e. transverse to the swell angle) is another important aspect of surf conditions. Many regard a wave that pitches progressively in one such transverse direction or the other as ideal. This allows for barrel riding, in which a surfer within the tubular portion of the wave follows the breaking portion of the wave before emerging from the end of the tube.
Generally speaking, surf conditions vary significantly from time to time and from place to place. It is not unusual to see surfers crowded about a relatively short portion, of a much longer beach, in which the surf conditions are more favorable. This crowding and competition for the best waves detracts from many surfers' enjoyment of the sport and limits the economic value of the beach.
Variation from time to time is also problematic. Many only have limited time for surfing and it can be very disappointing to arrive at a beach and find unfavorable surf conditions.
Changes in the tide and wind direction contribute to variations in surf condition. Some waves may break only on high or low tide. Expert surfers usually prefer offshore winds. Offshore wind tends to hold the wave crest up, improving the likelihood of the wave pitching. If the wind is onshore, the waves will more readily crumble.
With the foregoing in mind, at least a preferred form of the invention aims to improve surf conditions.
It is not admitted that any of the information in this patent specification is common general knowledge, or that the person skilled in the art could be reasonably expected to ascertain or understand it, regard it as relevant or combine it in any way before the priority date.